May 4 -- Moab, UT

What a difference a few hundred miles can make in terms of the weather. It was a balmy 48 degrees last night, and I nearly broiled in my down sleeping bag. I'd much rather be hot than cold, though, so I'm not complaining.

I didn't realize yesterday that I had changed time zones and am now in mountain time, so it surprised me this morning when I realized that I had lost an hour. Not to worry, I will gain it back in a day or so when I return to California.

After collecting maps and brochures from the visitor's center, I explored Canyonlands NP. Out here, trails are designed to traverse huge rock structures that defy easy trail marking. Thus, they employ cairns, which are small rocks stacked or piled together every so many feet or yards. I'm not used to this and had a little difficulty this morning finding my way. I climbed two rickety ladders up the sides of two huge rock faces and was treated to a fantastic view of the park and beyond, but then I lost my way and wandered aimlessly looking for those blasted cairns for nearly half an hour. Just as I re-established myself, a couple from Seattle came along, and I hiked the rest of the trail with them for safe measure.

The next trail I attempted was almost entirely across a rock surface, but I had mastered the cairn trail-marking method and had no trouble. It was a spectacular trail with tremendous vistas, either over land or into deep canyons.

By the time I returned from that hike, it was mid-day, and I was anxious to get to Arches NP and the town of Moab, which was just before it. The couple I met on the first trial had just come from Arches and told me that the park campground was full through June, and the nearby state park campground was full, as well. However, they assured me that there were many other options, including ones maintained by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), although they are primitive sites with vault toilets and no running water. Hmmm. Not my favored accommodations, but better than nothing, I guess.

The drive out of the park was phenomenal. From there, I skirted the La Sal mountains with their snow-capped peaks. I had been seeing them from a distance from the park. Now I was right under them and feeling their enormity.

Moab is a cute, touristy town that caters to the outdoor adventurers. I hit the gas station, the visitor's center, the general store (somewhat like a Big Lots), and the grocery store. By then, the only Thai restaurant in town was open, and I actually sat down at a table in a real restaurant (McDonald's doesn't count) and ate a meal that was prepared and served by others. As I normally do at a Thai restaurant I've not eaten at before, I ordered the Pad Thai, which is hard to screw up. It was fair as Pad Thai goes, but I still managed to eat the whole thing. Yum.

Leaving Moab, I considered getting a motel for the night, but decided I'd wait a few more nights. If I'm forced to camp in a waterless campground for more than a few nights, I will undoubtedly break down and find a real bed and a shower. Just not yet.

Just outside of Moab, I turned north on a small county road and crossed the Colorado River. The road cut through a deep canyon with red rock walls towering up on both sides, while the road skirted the river. The BLM has put small campgrounds along the river. The first few were full already, but I managed to find one not too far off the main road that will take me to Arches NP in the morning. Unfortunately, my campsite is right next to the road, so while the scenery is beyond description, I must endure the road noise from the traffic flying by. Hopefully, it will calm down as night falls, and I will be able to fall asleep to the sound of the river a few feet away.

By the way, while I was in Moab, I visited the library, as well, and uploaded the rest of the photos I've taken thus far -- 50-something. I didn't have time to caption them, but they're mostly of the Grand Canyon. I think you will be able to figure that out. Enjoy.

I'll be spending most, if not all, of the day tomorrow at Arches. If I feel like I've seen all that I wanted to see, then I might make my way toward Capitol Reef NP, but I doubt I would make it all the way there. If I leave Arches, then I will have to find some place to stay between the two parks. Motel maybe? Who knows. Half the fun of this trip is not planning too much too far in advance.

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